Chefs Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman are the dynamic duo of American kitchens. The native Memphians of Italian descent grew up together (declaring in the 9th grade their intentions of someday partnering in a restaurant), attended culinary schools together (Johnson & Wales in Charleston and the Italian Culinary Institute in Calabria), and have, since 2008, opened and operated six restaurants around Memphis (Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen; Hog & Hominy; Porchellino’s Craft Butcher; Catherine and Mary’s; The Gray Canary; Bishop) and one in New Orleans (Josephine Estelle at the Ace Hotel). They have consistently earned prestigious awards, nominations, and recognition as a tandem from the likes of the James Beard Foundation, Food & Wine magazine, and Bon Appétit. And, not surprisingly, it seems they even share a palate, as their inspirations reflect, whether responding together or separately.
Ticer/Hudman: Chris Cosentino’s Halibut spines with chilis, mint, and orange. When we ate this dish at Incanto in San Francisco it was an ah-ha moment. The idea of not wasting anything really set it for us, and it's such an elevated dish. This dish highlights the thin pieces of flesh still connected to the spines after butchering and the fish marrow. It just changed holistically the way we looked at utilizing the entire animal, and how you could take parts that are considered scrap or humble and make them really special. We were trained that if you took all the meat from an animal you were treating it respectfully, Chris showed us we still had more work to do. Years later, this dish inspired us to put crispy pig ears on the menu at Hog & Hominy. We use every part of the animal whenever we can.
'Nduja.
Ticer/Hudman: We had ‘Nduja for the first time in Tropea on the way to Sicily. We stopped at a roadside stand where they were selling Tropea onions, homemade wine, and ‘Nduja. We realized we had so much to learn. This was a spreadable salami filled with chilis that were handled in such a way so they were spicy, but not overpowering. It was salami, bread, and some Tropea onions tossed in salt. It was a mission statement. Use amazing ingredients, and don’t screw them up.
Ticer/Hudman: Mike Lata’s chicken liver parfait at FIG in Charleston. This dish is all technique. Mike is the king of technique and making extremely delicious food. We both gave each other a trip to Charleston with our wives because the first three years of Andrew & Michael Italian Kitchen we couldn’t take off the same weekend. So, we gave each a trip to Charleston and dinner at FIG, and yeah, it was all amazing, but the chicken liver parfait left the same impression on both of us.
Chicken Potacchio, or Italian braised chicken.
Andy Ticer: Chicken Potacchio on Sundays at my Maw Maw's house were a staple growing up. My family is from Senigallia in the Marche region, and this version of braised chicken is one of their signature dishes. As a kid, this was the one preparation I always hoped would be on the menu, though I never knew why I loved it so much, but when I was around 11/12 years old that I started asking the questions of what and why, while watching Maw Maw prepare those lunches. This dish is all about the balance of vinegar, and opened my eyes to cooking with acid and the different flavor levels that can be achieved.
Michael Hudman: Maw Maw's Cappelletti. This is a dish from my childhood, and it reminds me of holidays, traditions, and family, and of my Maw Maw. The filling is made of braised and ground chicken, pork, prosciutto, and veggies. The sauce is just simply chicken broth (brodo). The pasta is made and filled by hand, and it's a whole family affair. Everyone gets in on it, and we all gather around the table and crank out dozens and dozens of cappelletti. It has been amazing passing on the traditions to my kids of making the pasta as a family. We made cappelletti with the kids this past weekend, and it just brought back a lot of good memories from my childhood.
