This Pastry Is the ‘Bomb’

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The Italian analog to the doughnut, a bombolone or bomba (bomb) is a soft, sugar-covered fried dough filled with cream. This classic pastry is a traditional Carnival treat in Abruzzo, the home region of chef Niko Romito, who cooks there today at his three-star Michelin-rated Ristorante Reale. But in the 1970s, the fragrant bomba of his father’s pastry shop in the town of Rivisondoli was a destination in and of itself, an indisputable stop for anyone vacationing in those parts. 

Let’s face it: la bomba is a bomb of calories as well as of delicacy. Adapting the bombolone to suit contemporary tastes — lighter and healthier without sacrificing deliciousness — was a gamble for Romito. But he prevailed, thanks to countless hours of trial and error, such as replacing lard with extra-virgin olive oil and cocoa butter, and frying at controlled temperatures. Romito’s bomba comes plain or filled with cream, jam, chocolate, and ice cream.

And also savory
At first glance, it might resemble a hamburger bun. However, the bread comprising this panino is Romito’s savory bomba. The chef and his team have studied yeast, flour, and bread-making, orchestrating percentages, mixtures, and times. The patriotic one pictured below sporting the colors of the Italian flag is made with buffalo mozzarella, tomatoes, and fresh basil. The chef’s other savory sandwiches include stracchino (a soft cheese), prosciutto, and arugula, and escarole, raisins, pine nuts, and cherry tomatoes. He also stuffs them with hot preparations such as beef stew or pork with mustard and lettuce.

“In the kitchen, it’s important that those who cook savory and those who handle dessert communicate so that there is a design continuity between one and the other,” says Romito.

Where to try Romito's Bomba in Italy?
In addition to some permanent bomba-dedicated outposts in major Italian cities, Romito also organizes the occasional pop-up. The most recent took place during the holiday season in Pescara, the seaside capital of his native Abruzzo.