The wines of Calabria may lie just as under the radar as some of the region's culinary treasures, but they hold their own against some of Italy's finest.
Once upon a time, Calabria, along with Campania and Basilicata, comprised the Enotria, a vineyard-rich land reaping wines so renowned that the ancient Greeks awarded them to the winners of the Olympics. After a long period of oblivion, the wines of Calabria have reemerged on the scene, thanks a good part to the Cirò Boys, a group of young, tenacious winemakers who have given a new identity and vitality to wines made from Gaglioppo grapes. These graceful reds have a light color and a fresh, elegant, fruity profile.
Today, three-quarters of the production comprises reds and rosés and is concentrated between the hills and mountains, with Cosentino as the most highly concentrated area. There are several native vines, all of which are interesting. In addition to Gaglioppo, the main red varietals are Magliocco, Nerello Calabrese and Greco Nero, while Mantonico, Guarnaccia, and Pecorello comprise the main whites.
Calabria also puts forth rare passito wines made from Mantonica and Greco di Bianco as well as the equally rare Moscato al Governo di Saracena – all worth tasting if on offer. Here are four noteworthy Calabrian wines to keep an eye out for.
1. Sergio Arcuri, Cirò Rosso Classico Superior Aris 2017
This wine exemplifies the potential of Cirò Rosso. Deep, elegant, and graceful, it pairs well with many foods. Depending on the serving temperature, it goes well with meat, fish, and spicy dishes. Try it with pasta and/or meatballs in red sauce. website
2. Spiriti Ebbri, Neostòs White 2019
Founded by three friends and wine enthusiasts, this small winery specializes in wines from native vines that are representative of the territory. Neostòs is a white macerated with Pecorella grapes – it's broad and intense with aromas of Mediterranean shrubs. Serve it with cod and potatoes and Calabrian olives. website
3. Luigi Viola Moscato Passito al Governo di Saracena, 2019
The 16th-century popes sipped this particular sweet wine produced according to an ancient custom of the country of Saracena. Guarnaccia, Malvasia, Moscatello, and Adduroca grapes result in an amber wine with aromas of candied orange, exotic fruit, and dried figs. It's excellent with dry pastries and stuffed dried figs. website
4. Tenute Pacelli, Temeso 2015
A blend of Calabrian grapes and sweet Magliocco, this soft, enveloping red packs aromas of small wild fruits and sweet spices. Sip it alongside baked tiella, potatoes, and tomatoes. website
Cover photo: Vineyard near Montegiordano, Calabria, Italy Credit: Getty Images/Angelafoto
