On a frigid January morning, we arrive at Villa Margon in Trento to photograph the Lunelli family. Well, most of the family, because only the middle generation is present. The children, eleven in total, ranging from 3 to 15 years old, are at school. The aunts and uncles — four of the five remaining children of Bruno Lunelli, who in 1952 acquired the wineries founded by Giulio Ferrari in 1902 — are keeping warm inside their home. The villa and its 15th-century frescoes aren't visible from the road, which is how the property, where the family holds all its celebrations, managed to remain untouched during World War II.
For three generations the Lunelli family has been producing Ferrari, arguably the world’s most popular Trento DOC wine. Available in over 50 countries, Ferrari is poured at the Emmy Awards, and Barack Obama is also a fan. It’s the only Italian sparkler to have been awarded 98 points in the Wine Advocate “bible” (Giulio Ferrari Rosé 2006), a recognition usually reserved for Champagne. “That was one of the greatest milestones of my career, as was seeing our reserve sparkling wine dedicated to Casa Italia gifted to Sergio Mattarella [Italy’s then president] during Expo 2015,” says Matteo Lunelli, president of Cantine Ferrari since 2011.
In Villa Margon, from the left: Alessandra Cirolini Lunelli, Stefano Rossi, Silvia Lunelli, Alberto Calvi di Coenzo, Valentina Lunelli. Then Chiara, Camilla e Roberta. Standing: Jean Louis a Beccara, Matteo, Marcello and Alessandro Lunelli.
But first, let’s properly introduce the family. There’s, of course, Matteo with his wife Valentina. Then there’s Marcello, who manages production, and his wife Roberta. Alessandro is married to Silvia, and is the president of the family’s real estate holding company as well as the CEO of Tenute Lunelli. This winery, also owned and operated by the family, produces Auritea from Tuscany, a pure Cabernet Franc, and Carapace from Umbria, the award-winning Montefalco Sagrantino. Camilla, married to Stefano Rossi, is the head of communications of the entire company. Then there’s Alessandra, whose mother is Carla (Bruno’s only daughter) married to Jean Louis a Beccara, and Chiara, Matteo’s sister, married to Alberto Calvi di Coenzo. “Today there are only 12 of us, but during the holidays, there are more than 20. If our parents join, we’re usually more than 40,” says Camilla. After a great deal of chitchat, I come to learn that the whole family gathers several times a year for special occasions other than Christmas to enjoy dinner together. “We used to go to grandma Elda’s house (Bruno Lunelli’s wife) in the center of Trento,” Alessandro recalls. “Today we meet at the Locanda [Locanda Margon, the Michelin-starred family restaurant] or at someone’s house or the villa. The tastings before Nonna Elda’s dinner were always special. Each aunt and uncle would bring a few great bottles of Champagne or a rare wine from their travels. As children, we couldn’t wait to grow up so we could share that moment, too.”
Camilla adds, “We also enjoy these tastings a few days before the harvest, when we meet to speak with the shareholders, which is basically all of us again, or while on holiday in Sardinia, or enjoying the snow in the Brenta Dolomites.” The Lunellis see each other often, both in the small company kitchen or to enjoy a creamy risotto and Perlé Rosé at Locanda Margon. Whoever organizes the dinner is also responsible for the table and the menu. Today it’s Roberta’s turn, helped by her mother-in-law Giuliana, who has proposed vintage Hermès tableware. The pieces clash somewhat but the fact that they are so dainty and rare eventually prevails. A centerpiece was chosen with a just few thoughtfully placed flowers — after all, it’s the middle of winter — and traditional local dishes are served, all rustic, but elegantly presented. We get ready to take the picture — quickly, due to the bitter cold.
It’s a beautiful day, Monte Bondone frames the villa and our cast of characters. Everyone is cheerful, joking and commenting through chattering teeth. They seem more like a group of friends than relatives. Are they reciting a script? Nope. The French philosopher Montaigne once said, “Governing a family is only slightly less complicated than ruling a kingdom,” but the Lunellis immediately refute this point. “Surely our serenity is directly connected to the covenants that our aunts and uncles sanctioned a long time ago. Rules must be established before there is even a need to apply them,” Matteo says. Rules govern relations between the company and the family to protect both. Prospective employees must meet certain requirements: a college degree, experience abroad, good English, and knowledge of another language is always a plus. Husbands and wives are not both permitted to work for the company in order to avoid complications from a potential separation. And the results are clear: the numbers are growing, long-term projects are planned and they’ve set their sight on the distant horizon. “A united family guarantees we’ll be able to plan a future for the generations to come.
The Lunelli's Smacafam made by Francesca, Uncle Gino’s wife, from the second generation of the Lunelli family.
Difficulty: Easy
Time: 1 hour 10 minutes, plus 1 hour at rest
4 Servings:
2 cups milk
⅓ cup flour
1 slightly aged Lucanica sausage
1 large egg
salt
extra-virgin olive oil
Mix the flour with the egg, 2 cups milk (or less), half of the crumbled sausage, and a pinch of salt. Grease a baking pan well. Place the dough in it and let it rest for 1 hour. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Slice the other half of the sausage and spread the slices over the top of the dough. Heat the pan on the stove for a few minutes and then place in the oven to bake for 1 hour.
The traditional Smacafam recipe, photo by Giacomo Bretzel