Lidia Bastianich is a cook, television personality, and Italian writer who has been naturalized in the United States. She is also a loving mother and grandmother who values her Italian roots and Istrian heritage. Lidia's family originated from Istria when it was still part of Italy. However, in 1975, Italy renounced its right to the region with the Treaty of Osimo, which was a controversial decision. We spoke to Lidia about her experiences growing up in Istria, where she lived with her parents and relatives, many of whom have since passed away. We also discussed what she has carried with her to keep her memories alive.
The I Racconti delle Radici project, in collaboration with MAECI, explores the connection between memories and cuisine. It was recently presented at the Farnesina in the presence of Ministers Tajani and Lollobrigida during the launch of the eighth edition of SCIM - Week of Italian Cuisine in the World 2023. Lidia Bastianich played a significant role in this story of Italian immigration, and here are some memories.
Grandma Rosa and the farmyard animals
«I grew up in the countryside of Pula, Istria with my grandmother Rosa. We were surrounded by animals and the produce of the land. I have many fond memories of my childhood there, including the scene of my grandparents, their siblings, and various aunts all wearing aprons and handkerchiefs tied on their heads. It was my aunts who taught us at the table to never waste food, saying, "ci son figlioll che non dar da magnar."
Today, Italian cooking is a nostalgic passion of mine, and it reminds me of the love and comfort I experienced during my childhood. It has been a significant influence on my life, both in what I have done and am doing in the United States, as well as a confirmation of who I am.
As a child, I was comfortable in my surroundings, surrounded by animals such as chickens, baby goats, and rabbits. I was always Grandma Rosa's helper in the kitchen, especially on Sundays. I still remember the heady smells of gravy simmering for hours on the stove in the little "black" house next to the chicken coop. I also remember the fragrant scents of laurel, rosemary, and tomato paste, which I liked to touch with a piece of bread, somewhat furtively».
Italy's farewell, without warning
«When I immigrated to the United States in 1958, I was 12 years old. It was food that reminded me of my childhood, and cooking made me feel good because it brought me back to that time. Once I arrived in New York, I asked myself, "Why do I love cooking so much?" I think it was instinct that made me go back to my roots. As a child, I never imagined that I would never see home again. Over time, I realized that I hadn't been able to say goodbye to my grandmother Rosa, my little goats, my aunts... With cooking, I brought my land and my family to America».
The kitchen was small, very small
«For four generations, my family has kept a tradition alive with passion, enthusiasm, and love. Even when we moved overseas and were given a small apartment with a tiny kitchen by Caritas, we still held tables with family and friends, passing food from hand to hand due to the lack of space. As soon as I could, I gave myself a bigger kitchen out of reaction. Our go-to dishes were rice and potatoes, polenta with cheese, pan-fried cabbage, and most of all, gnocchi. To this day, gnocchi gives me a unique sensation that feels like an internal caress. This tradition continues even in New York, and I have passed it on to my grandchildren».
Around the table kneading gnocchi
«When my grandchildren were little, they used to stand around the table and knead dough, just as my grandmother did with me. Now that they are adults and attending college, they still call me for advice on how to make certain dishes like sauce or broth. It brings me great joy to see them and my own children carry on our family's food culture despite being born in America. Food culture is deeply rooted in our family origins, and it transcends generations. Italian cuisine is the most appreciated in the United States, thanks to the first Italian Americans who brought their regional traditions with them when they came to seek their fortunes in the 1800s. My Istrian food traditions are quite different from theirs since theirs were from southern Italy. As an adult, I began to travel extensively throughout Italy, discovering regional dishes and bringing them back to the States. This has been my luck, my choice, and my life».
Success, well deserved
Lidia Bastianich has spent 25 years producing television programs and authoring dozens of cookbooks, including her newest book, Lidia's From Our Family Table to Yours: More Than 100 Recipes Made with Love for All Occasions. She has a large family, including Joe, whom we often see in Italy, and daughter Tanya, who helps her with public relations. Lidia is also a proud grandmother to five grandchildren and still has a lot of energy to share and pass on.