Whether you’re a skier or not, the Alps are irresistible all winter round – but not only during winter. Every season pours forth its own distinct charm.
Here are some of the best places to eat in the Lombard Alps and beyond – you can add them to your post-pandemic Italy goals. They’re open year-round, but there’s just something about winter that makes the backdrop all the more charming.
The taverns
A pleasant surprise is Osteria del Crotto in Morbegno, located in the province of Sondrio, the heart of Valtellina. In addition to excellent cured meats like bresaola and rare violino di capra (goat violin), you can sample some freshwater fish from Lake Como including lavarello, a whitefish, and missoltini, preserved agone. Finish with some historic Bitto, the esteemed mountain cheese.
Those who love trattorias, on the other hand, know well that Altavilla in Bianzone, also in Sondrio and close to the Swiss border, is a certainty. It’s no coincidence that it has earned the Slow Food snail for the offer of local products and cuisine that flawlessly reinterprets tradition, such as the venison loin with Sassella-soaked pears and jam (Sassella is a local wine) or the zabaglione cream with herbal amaro. The wine list comprises 400 labels, most of which are from nearby Valtellina.
Worth the trip
La Corte di Bacco in Edolo, located northeast of Milan in the province of Brescia, warrants a visit – try the casoncelli alla camuni (a type of ravioli) and the crock of snails with wild herbs and Corteno cheese – as does Trattoria Cavallino in Vione, a hub for fresh pasta and game season.
Dosso del Liri, which towers over Lake Como, is home to Osteria Enoteca Aquila d'Oro. On the menu are its own cured meats, tasty first courses (open ravioli with vegetables, ricotta gnocchi, and nettles), and lots of meat – most notably, a mint-flavored lamb to applause.
Finally, in Curiglia con Monteviasco, in the province of Varese, is Barchet restaurant where specialties include gnocchi with slinzega (bresaola bits), polenta with wild boar, goat's milk gelato with honey. The town, which only has about 15 permanent inhabitants, is incredible and the food is exceptional. You can arrive either by cable car or on foot – the latter takes around an hour and a half.
Creativity and pizzoccheri
A standout spot in the province of Sondrio is the restaurant La Prèsef, a Michelin-starred restaurant at Agriturismo La Fioridia in Mantello, helmed by chef Gianni Tarabini, who prepares an intense, fun, and colorful cuisine. If you prefer traditional Valtellinese fare, head to Quattro Stagioni, the adjacent also overseen by Tarabini.
Speaking of historic Valtellinese dishes, a must-visit is Trippi in the town of Montagna for taroz (potatoes, green beans, and melted cheese), “integralist” pizzoccheri, sautéed venison, creamy bitter ice cream with panun (rustic dessert made from rye flour).
And on to the stars
Valtellina boats three Michelin stars. In addition to La Prèsef, chef Stefano Masanti, who alternates his winter commitment at the Cantinone at the Sport Hotel Alpina in Madesino with that in the Napa Valley, also holds one. He serves cuisine that links the territory to technique, passing through a strict selection of raw materials. It’s no coincidence that he produces a much sought-after brisaola, as it is pronounced in these parts. You can choose between two tasting menus and between two very different formulas, that of the gourmand restaurant and that of the bistro which is certainly more agile.
Located near the Swiss border, Lanterna Verde in the commune of Villa di Chiavenna holds the region's third star. The food is incredible and newbies can't miss the menus dedicated to trout and Valchiavenna that the Tonola family prepares impeccably. The winery is among the best in the whole of Lombardy, with all the best of local production that is remarkable on reds.
Cover photo: Riccardo Lettieri