In the 1930s, the streets of Capri were still deserted. The rationalist-style villa of writer Curzio Malaparte, which he designed himself, was still being built. During these years, characters like the industrialist Friedrich Alfred Krupp stayed at the Quisisana hotel for months, drinking an aperitivo at the hotel bar at the same time every day.
At the time, Capri's vocation was mostly cultural. Writer Norman Douglas spent several years on this island, part of the region of Campania, in the Tyrrhenian Sea. Russian writer Maxim Gorky, one of the leading theorists of socialism, also lived there. In fact, Lenin visited him on the island, and he described Capri as the place you want that makes you forget everything.
English writer Graham Greene spent time on Capri – he even prefaced Douglas’s Venus in the Kitchen, subtitled The Erotic Cookbook, a collection of aphrodisiac recipes first published in 1952.
Other interesting characters included Axel Munthe, the Swedish scholar, doctor, close friend of Sweden’s Queen who lived in Anacapri in Villa San Michele, now a destination for Scandinavian artists eager for a creative retreat. In addition to the museum, the villa houses a lush garden teeming with curious flora. Its little-frequented café serves excellent Torta Caprese, both the traditional chocolate version and the lemon variation.
The Capri Palace Hotel & Spa, located in the town of Anacapri’s main square, was originally named the Europa Palace. Though founded in the 1960s, it didn’t become a food and art destination until 1975. The two-star Michelin-rated L’Olivo restaurant serves delicious cuisine from chef Andrea Migliaccio, his two signature dishes being lemon tagliolini with burrata and red prawns with asparagus. Not far from here is the chairlift that goes up to Monte Solaro, which stands at 1.932 feet above sea level.
Not far from the famous Blue Grotto is Il Riccio restaurant, the only beach club in the world with a Michelin star. Giant plateaus of raw fish and crustaceans alternate on the turquoise-colored tables, followed by an octopus salad, spaghetti with sea urchins as in the classic island tradition.
It’s said that no visit to the island is complete without tasting Domenico Guarracino's soufflé from Bagno Torre Saracena. The bathing establishment founded in 1906 is today a beach equipped in the simplest of Capri chic style offering a view of the Faraglioni rock stacks, pleasant vintage vibes, and delicious cuisine such as fish soup with redfish and cherry tomatoes eggplant meatballs, and typical ravioli filled with caciotta cheese and Parmigiano.
Dom Pérignon presented its new 2010 vintage at the elegant Aurora, currently overseen by Mia D'Alessio, the third generation of restaurateurs. Sample the "water pizza," a thin tasty pie that’s been a signature since the 1950s – the version with burrata and lemon zest is exceptional.
This is Capri, always the same, always different. Always wonderful. Browse through the gallery above to see some pics.