Roman wines are just as palate-pleasing as the capital's signature foods. Here's a look at some wines of Lazio so that you can drink like a Roman when in Rome – or at home.
Lazio’s best wine comes from Frascati, a city and wine region around 20 miles southeast of Rome. It's best known for white wines produced from a mix of grape varieties, predominantly Malvasia. Cannellino di Frascati is a sweet wine that pairs nicely with desserts and Pecorino Romano. Frascati Superiore, on the other hand, goes well with seafood and bucatini all'amatriciana. Both are DOCG wines.
Cesanese, the most interesting grape by far, is grown in the areas of Olevano Romano, Affile, and Piglio, all east of the capital. The pleasant red wines it reaps are scented with sour cherries, plums, and violets in their youth, and the flavors grow spicier over the years. Pair these reds with lamb, grilled meat, and medium-aged cheeses.
The Bellone grape results in structured, fragrant white wines. Of particular note is the “Est! Est!! Est!!! di Montefiascone,” which owes its exclamative name to local lore. It’s said that when 12th-century bishop and wine enthusiast Johannes Defuk traveled to Rome on the tail of Henry V, he commissioned his cupbearer to ride ahead and mark the word est (there is) on any taverns with good wine. Following his tasting in Montefiascone, the cupbearer reinforced the agreed marker, repeating it three times and adding six exclamation points.
On that note, here are five wines from Lazio to keep an eye out for.
Fontana Candida Frascati Superiore Luna Mater Riserva 2019
This structured, powerful white is among the appellation’s best. Made with the white Malvasia di Candia, Malvasia del Lazio, Greco, and Bombino grapes, the wine has aromas of exotic fruit and hawthorn with citrus and mineral on the palate. It's excellent with carbonara. website
Marco Carpineti Metodo Classico Pas Dosé Kius 2013
Marco Carpineti is one of the region’s most virtuous winemakers, producing territorial and precise organic wines. This intense and mature sparkling wine is from Nero Buono di Cori, a DOC southeast of Rome. Try it with fried baccalà. Carpineto’s excellent olive oil is also of note. website
Le Rose Artemisia 2019
The Mediterraneanesque Malvasia is fruity and spicy with a marked flavor and acidity. Enjoy it with grilled shellfish. website
La Visciola Priore Ju Quarto Cesanese del Piglio 2018
Made from grapes harvested on old vines, the wine has an impenetrable dark color. It's fresh with traces of balsamic, "earthy" and persistent. Pair it with coda alla vaccinara, one of Rome's fifth quarter classics. tel. 0775.501950 (no website)
Cincinnato Castore 2019
This white wine from a cooperative winery in Cori is made exclusively from Bellone. Smooth, savory, and citrusy, it owes its name to the temple of Castor and Pollux, whose ruins are found in Cori. Try it with pasta and sardines. website
Cover photo: San Vito Romano in Lazio, located close to Olevano Romano, one of the places where the Cesanese grape dominates. Photo credit: iStock.
